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'Hearty' Trenchermen Is a Bit of Everything (Maybe a Good Thing)

Chicago

Beer-hall-in-a-bath house meets farm-to-table fabulosity at new Wicker Park restaurant.

The food critics have spoken–in raves: Trenchermen is the hot new spot in Chi-town. Here’s how their flack describe the joint:

“Creatively retooling the ubiquitous chef-driven concept by serving thought-provoking food in a fun, boisterous environment, the Trenchermen integrates the best of both casual and fine dining experiences. Inspired by the sense of community created by early 20th century beer halls, Trenchermen adopts a Midwestern farm-to-table approach to craft its progressive new American-style cuisine, presenting familiar flavors in an unexpected manner.

“Trenchermen [def: 1."a person who enjoys food; hearty eater and drinker] is the unexpected partnership between award-winning chefs and brothers, Michael (Blackbird, wd~50) and Patrick (Signature Room, Four Seasons Hotel, Everest) Sheerin with local restaurateur Matt Eisler and designer Kevin Heisner (Nightwood, Bangers & Lace, Bar DeVille) opened in Chicago’s Wicker Park (2039 W. North Avenue).

“Trenchermen’s menu changes seasonally, not only showcasing organic ingredients at their peak, but also displaying the Sheerins’ high level of creativity. Inspired by the local farms and markets from which the menu is crafted, Trenchermen offers inventive, worldly dishes that pay homage to Midwestern ingredients, yet presents them in unique, unexpected ways, such as Pickle Tots – Chicken Breast Bresaola, Red Onion Yogurt, Scallions and Sepia Noodles – Avocado-Chive, Pickled Watermelon, Garlic.

“Larger format dishes pair expertly prepared proteins with the freshest seasonal produce and feature the bold, unconventional flavor combinations that have become the Sheerins’ signature, such as Smoked Sturgeon – Haricot Vert, Cherries, Chicories, Chocolate Malt Granola and Aged Pekin Duck Breast – Rhubarb Umeboshi, Fried Rice, Kimchee Mortadella, Red Bean Paste, Nasturtium.

“Located inside Chicago’s historic North Avenue Bath House, Trenchermen incorporates contemporary architectural elements into industrial age design in the 86-seat restaurant and 52-seat bar area. Showcasing respected designer Kevin Heisner’s authentic craftsmanship, the décor utilizes traditional materials in new ways, featuring modern interpretations of vintage pieces throughout the 5,700 square foot space. Custom furniture and millwork such as an inventive tap beverage system, combined with found and salvaged items, play to the high contrast between old and new. Organically bringing together both form and function, all facets of the restaurant are based on the unexpected juxtaposition of artistic precision and casual ambiance – offering a new Trenchermen experience.”

Trenchermen is located at 2039 W North Avenue, www.trenchermen.com, or call (773) 661-1540.

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