In the land of the faux-thentic San Gennaro fest, and tourist red-sauce shills, it took an infamous club doorman to bring it back home.
Angelo Bianchi is best known for being the well-heeled and smiling clipboard Nazi at New York’s now-closed Beatrice Inn. But now he may become far more famous for bringing an authentic pizzeria, restaurant, and intimate bar to Little Italy’s Mulberry Street. He and family members opened quietly last week their new Porfirio Rubirosa canteen, and like his co-partner at the Beatrice-Paul Sevigny, who is having mega-success with his newish Kenmare bistro and club in nearby NoHo-it’s likely he has a hit on his hands. Room 100 and a ragtag quartet headed over right before Halloween to try it out. And everything was fantastic-though we will return to try the pizzas. And to just…hang. From pasta dishes to pounded veal medallions, we were all rather swept away to another time-one of Mafioso and butcher shops, and kids playing in summer fire hydrants. The drinks and wine list were dead-on too. The place is named after a famous 1950s playboy, but we got more of a sophisticated mom-and-pop-shop vibe from it all. And in tradition, we kept our seats faced toward the front window, where we sat.
235 Mullberry Street
New York, NY
image via NYCtheBlog